Iner-G & Recor – A Historic Partnership
The partnership between Iner-G and Recor was forged to achieve one goal: to bring the high standards of European engineering to Australian consumers.
Together, Iner-G and Recor are delivering a line of batteries and motor products never before seen on the Australian market. Products that have been manufactured to the highest quality and designed specifically to withstand the harsh demands of Australian conditions. Built from necessity, this partnership combines engineering excellence with local expertise to provide the most durable, cost-effective range of batteries and motor maintenance products.
Recor
Advancing battery technology for over 50 years
Founded in Greece in 1964, Recor is one of the fastest-growing manufacturers of vehicle batteries in Europe. Delivering to over 600 Greek locations and over four continents worldwide, we have established ourselves as a leading supplier to the motor industry.
We owe our success to our continuous innovation, constantly pushing the technology behind Ca-Ca and AGM/EFB Batteries to develop new standards for power efficiency and durability. Taking advantage of over a century of combined manufacturing experience, we consistently produce high-quality batteries that are trusted by thousands of consumers across the world.
FAQs - Recor Batteries
Generally, the addition of any additive or third party product is likely to cause impurities that harm your battery, but some battery types do require regular water refills. This should be done only with distilled water and without filling past the maximum levels indicated, as any overflow during operation can cause serious damage.
Research has shown that the biggest causes of premature battery failure are acid stratification and low charge – both of which are related to driving habits, exacerbated by conditions, rather than any factory defect. Some of the problem habits of drivers that cause these issues include:
- Leaving lights and air conditioning on while the car is stationary
- Driving only very short distances at a time
- Driving while the battery is not properly housed or loose
- Turning the headlights on before starting the engine
- Allowing the engine to overheat
- Irregular or no general maintenance
During winter, most people worry about the damage done to their battery from cold starts, but it’s actually hot conditions that are your battery’s worst enemy. High temperatures mean a lot of heat under the hood, which can cause the water in your battery’s liquid electrolyte to evaporate and accelerate internal corrosion.
The result? Lower battery capacity, weaker starting ability and much shorter service life.
Yes, a battery that is unable to hold its charge seriously impacts the fuel economy of your vehicle. This is due to several factors:
- The alternator will continuously attempt to charge the battery to an acceptable voltage level. If it can’t reach this level, the alternator will simply run non-stop while you’re driving.
- A low charge causes fuel injectors to operate inefficiently, making the engine lurch and run poorly.
- Without enough charge, the diagnostic sensors that feed into the car’s electrical system will not work, meaning that it will not be able to detect opportunities for low-intensity, fuel-efficient operation.
Overall, using a battery with a longer lifespan and slower rate of discharge will save you a huge amount in refuelling costs in the long run.
A conventional or starter battery is responsible for providing the initial high-energy burst to start up an engine, after which the alternator recharges lost capacity. A start-stop battery, on the other hand, is designed to cyclically discharge and recharge to keep all parts of a vehicle powered as needed, even while it is stationary and the engine idle.
It is important to install the correct type of battery, as detailed by the manufacturer of the vehicle, to avoid potential damage and breakdowns.
Used car batteries cannot be disposed of through general waste and must be recycled at specific facilities. However, most workshops, scrap dealers, or service stations will accept used car batteries for recycling. In fact, over 95% of materials in lead-acid car batteries can be safely recovered, and are even able to be recharged for second-hand use in many cases.
The best time to replace your battery is before you need to.
No battery can last forever. In general, you should replace your car battery about every three years, but you could end up needing a replacement sooner. Factors like your climate and driving habits can affect your battery’s lifespan and leave you needing a new one before the three-year mark.
There are plenty of signs to look out for to know when you need to charge your battery – your car will make it very obvious. Keep an eye out for any lit-up dashboard lights and pay attention to any unusual sounds, smells, or other indications while driving. As a rule, if you’re unsure, it never hurts to charge back up to capacity.
Reserve capacity, or reserve minutes, is a standardised measurement used by manufacturers to describe the duration a fully charged battery can sustain a 25 amp current in a controlled environment before completely discharging. It’s not a strict guideline for how long you can expect your own battery to last, but it is an accurate comparison of power generation and efficiency between different products.
It’s always a bit daunting to read through all the manufacturer details of your battery. To help, we’ve summarised the main technical specifications you’ll come across when selecting a car battery:
- Nominal Voltage (V) – the normal voltage of the battery.
- Cut-off Voltage – the expected voltage level of an “empty” battery.
- Capacity or Nominal Capacity (Ah for specific C-rate) – the number of Amp-hours (Ah) before a fully charged battery discharges to the cut-off voltage.
- Energy or Nominal Energy (Wh for specific C-rate) – another way to measure capacity, counting the number of Watt-hours (Wh) before a fully charged battery discharges to the cut-off voltage.
- Life cycle – the number of discharge-to-charge cycles that the battery can perform before it starts to decline. Also referred to as the cycle life.
- Specific Energy (Wh/kg) – the defined capacity of a battery by mass, useful for generating moderate power over long periods of time.
- Energy Density (W/L) – the volumetric version of Specific Energy, measuring capacity by litres.
- Specific Power (W/kg) – the maximum power capability of a battery by mass, i.e. how much power it can deliver. Useful for high-powered products with short operating times.
- Power Density (W/L) – the volumetric version of Specific Power, measuring maximum power capability by litres.
- Maximum Continuous Discharge Current – the maximum current that the battery can discharge continuously without becoming damaged.
- Maximum 30-sec Discharge Pulse Current – the maximum current that the battery can discharge in 30-sec pulses without becoming damaged.
- Charge Voltage – the voltage level that is indicated at full charge capacity.
- Float Voltage – the voltage level that must be maintained by the battery to compensate for its self-discharge.
- Charge Current (recommended) – the ideal current that the battery needs to be initially charged under.
- Internal Resistance (maximum) – the maximum level of resistance, opposing the flow of power, that the battery will achieve as it discharges.
There are three basic types of battery warranties, available through your insurance provider or at the time of purchase:
Free Replacement Warranty
Under the Free Replacement Warranty, your battery will be covered with a free replacement if it ever stops working or suffers a malfunction. However, a replacement will not be offered in cases where there are signs of deliberate misuse.
Pro-Rata Warranty
Under the Pro-rata warranty, you receive a discount on the maximum retail price (MRP) to purchase a replacement in the case of damage or malfunction. Batteries purchased under this will receive a fresh warranty period. Just as in the case of the Free Replacement warranty, deliberate misuse will void this offering.
Composite Warranty
A composite Warranty is a combination of both the Free Replacement and Pro-rata options. For example, a Composite Warranty can include up to 12 months of Free Replacement coverage, followed by 12 months of Pro-rata coverage.
Battery life cycle specifications are a recommendation, rather than a set countdown until your car battery expires. In truth, every time you discharge your battery, its performance will be impacted. Manufacturers consider a lifecycle to have ended once the capacity of the battery becomes too low, generally around 80% of its original capacity.
You can slow this process down considerably by making sure to always fully recharge your car battery, as partial recharging can cause accelerated wear.
A calcium battery is a type of lead-acid battery containing a calcium component (around 1%), added to both the positive and negative plates. They are seeing increased use in modern vehicles as they bring a range of benefits, including:
- Low-maintenance – Calcium batteries have near-impenetrable cases and the contained electrolytes do not evaporate, meaning they can work for years without maintenance.
- High efficiency – with high startup current, good capacity, and low rates of self-discharge, they also often outperform their non-calcium counterparts.
- Resilient – Calcium batteries are less affected by extreme weather conditions, including heat, and are more able to withstand the higher power demands of modern vehicles.
Calcium batteries are compatible with almost all modern vehicles. They are a low-cost, high-performance alternative, and will continue to be used as manufacturers transition more and more toward hybrid and electric vehicles.
An enhanced flooded battery (EFB) is an entry-level option for cars that feature stop-start technology. EFBs are wet-filled, similar to standard flooded batteries, but possess enhanced cycling abilities and improved charge acceptance. This means EFBs recharge more quickly, allowing them to handle heavy-duty, cyclic, and start-stop applications. Moreover, they have a longer cycle life when compared to traditional batteries.
RECOR EFB batteries also contain special lead-calcium-tin alloy grids, a negative active mass with higher carbon content, and a larger electrolyte reserve, which translates to – better performance, longer life cycle, and less maintenance.
An Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery differs from regular batteries as the electrolyte liquid (commonly called the battery acid) is absorbed into glass mats like a sponge, instead of freely floating as in a conventional battery.
AGM batteries are designed to cope with the higher energy demands that many of the technologies and accessories of modern cars put on their batteries. RECOR AGM batteries excel in this regard, especially in stop-start applications, where our batteries ensure a seamless start up even after engines have been cut to save fuel.
All refunds are assessed on a case-by-case basis and awarded at the discretion of management. Reasons for a refund must be clearly outlined and may be requested to be put in writing for consideration.
Iner-G
Australian owned motor maintenance
With a large network of suppliers across Australia, Iner-G Lubricants have grown to be the dependable domestic choice for motor oils and lubricants. We are heavily invested in providing to our local customers, sourcing a wide range of products to keep vehicles on the road for longer.
Iner-G promises to bring our customers the best-suited products at the most competitive prices. And, through our partnership with Recor, we are continuing to deliver on this promise. Whether you’re driving around the city or in the dry heat of the outback, Iner-G Lubricants will keep your motor running.
FAQs - Iner-G Oils & Lubricants
Iner-G Lubricants are made to keep mechanical parts running smoothly, all but eliminating metal-to-metal contact, and offer a range of direct benefits, including:
- Reducing wear and tear caused by friction
- Overheating prevention
- Corrosion prevention
- Keeping machine surfaces clear of debris
- Sealing against contaminants
When used alongside regular maintenance, Iner-G Lubricants will increase efficiency, reduce maintenance downtime, and lengthen the life cycle of every moving component. Our products are the key to having a healthy vehicle.
The best lubricant for your vehicle is one that meets all the specifications listed in your vehicle owner’s manual. To find the ideal product, you need to be aware of how lubricants are classified.
Firstly, they are classified according to their application, e.g. hydraulic oils, gear oils, motor oils – this lets you know which parts these lubricants should be applied to.
Secondly, they are classified according to their viscosity, which is an important quality to match your vehicle’s needs. Viscosity is a measure of resistance to free flow, listed as either single-grade (SAE 30, SAE 40 etc.), or as multi-grade, which lists the lubricant’s viscosity at both cold and hot temperatures (SAE 20W40, SAE 5W30 etc.).
Finally, lubricants are also classified according to the type of base oil used, typically split between mineral oil or synthetic-based, which you can read more about below.
There are three main types of motor oil:
Synthetic
Synthetic oil is chemically engineered for higher performance, withstanding extreme temperatures and providing a superior reduction in friction. These qualities allow for better fuel efficiency and a boost to the horsepower, often being recommended for the demands of modern, high-end vehicles. Synthetic oil also has longer lasting properties, giving you more mileage before an oil change than conventional alternatives.
Semi-Synthetic
Semi-synthetic oil combines synthetic and conventional oil to grant many of the benefits of full synthetic, but at a lower cost. Using Semi-synthetic oil you can expect to see similar levels of oxidation resistance, performance at high temperatures, and long-lasting mileage. Semi-synthetic is also used as a transitioning oil when switching over to full synthetic.
Conventional
Conventional oil is the standard, traditional oil used by older vehicle models with less complex engine demands. As an oil, conventional is cheap, but also has the shortest intervals between oil changes – costing you in the long run.
Both mineral and synthetic oils use crude oil as a base. However, Mineral oil is obtained through simple refining, while Synthetic oils undergo chemical treatment.
Modern vehicles generally require blended-synthetic oil, while fully synthetic oils are recommended for more complex and powerful engines. Mineral oils are still used for older vehicles, including classic and vintage cars, as Synthetic oils are not compatible.
Synthetic oil (SO) has many advantages over mineral oil (MO), which we’ll try to cover here:
- SO provides greater lubrication than MO.
- SO maintains its viscosity at high temperatures, whereas MO becomes unable to flow and properly lubricate. This means that SO can withstand higher RPMs.
- MO usage decreases engine efficiency over time through the accumulation of sludge on parts. This can lead to increased fuel consumption and more frequent maintenance.
- SO has longer mileage than MO, keeping your engine running smoothly the whole time.
One of the most important factors is viscosity. Choosing the correct viscosity grade for your vehicle will extend the life cycle of your engine, so make sure to reference your owner’s manual when looking for the best product. Viscosity grades are standardised across manufacturers and are recommended based on the expected ambient temperatures of your engine.
Electric motors do not have the same moving parts as conventional engine. They have no air intake, exhaust, or pistons, so they don’t really need lubrication from motor oil at all! That said, however, some of the bearings within the vehicle require a small amount of grease, though they are only infrequently needed to be lubricated.
Viscosity is the measure of a liquid’s resistance to flow; basically, how thick it is. Different engines operate best with different levels of oil viscosity – if the oil is too thick, it will require more energy to circulate; too thin, and the oil can break down and fail to properly coat your engine. This causes:
- Increased wear and tear
- Poor fuel economy
- Increased chance of engine failure
Motor oil and transmission fluid are not the same thing, and should not be used interchangeably. Motor oils specifically lubricate the engine, while transmission fluids are used to keep all the moving parts of your steering system running smoothly.
The two differ primarily in the fact that motor oil is primarily a lubricant, while transmission fluid is also a kind of hydraulic fluid, meaning it does not have the same additives that allow for sufficient and sustained lubrication in engines.
These days, using modern lubricants, you should be changing your engine oil at intervals of 8,000km. Using Iner-G’s brand of quality synthetic and semi-synthetic oils, this number gets bumped up to around 11,000km, on average. Or, if you’re using a fully synthetic motor oil with a compatible engine, you could wait as long as 24,000km before changing.
The exact timeframe really depends on how you are using your vehicle. Factors like temperature, constant stopping and starting (as happens in dense traffic), and the terrain you’re driving on all contribute. What’s important to remember is that, in the long run, you won’t save money by delaying an oil change – the maintenance costs of wear and tear will far outweigh the price of changing your oil.
In general, mixing different lubricants will see a decrease in performance. Combining the same grades of synthetic and mineral oil may not damage your engine, but you will not experience the same performance advantages you would expect from an unmixed synthetic oil.
Always read the information label on your product. Some lubricants are not compatible and mixing them can cause harm to your engine, the environment, and yourself. Reach out to us for support if you are unsure which products are safe to use.
The short answer is yes, but it depends on how ‘wrong’ the oil or grease is. Using products with the wrong viscosity or of different types (e.g. switching motor oil for transmission fluid) can cause pronounced wear and tear to your parts over prolonged use. If a lubricant is too thin or performs poorly under your expected RPMs, it will definitely lead to damage being done to your vehicle.
Most conventional oils have a shelf life of around 5 years, while synthetic and semi-synthetic oils can last 8+ years. Motor oils should come packaged with a printed expiry date, but if you’re unsure, the rule of thumb is to use opened motor oils within 5 years of the manufacturing date.
There are four types of brake fluid that consumers should be aware of: DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5, and DOT 5.1.
All four are named after their adherence to international standards for brake fluid set out by the American organisation, the Department of Transport. DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 are all glycol-based fluids that absorb water, while DOT 5 is silicone-based and will not absorb water. Selecting the correct brake fluid is very important and will be specified by the manufacturer of your vehicle.
Correctly lubricating the parts of your engine is vital in preventing wear and tear, damage caused by cold starts, or even breakdowns. Not only that, but the right motor oil will increase your fuel economy, vehicle longevity, and engine performance.
If you don’t have an oil gauge display on your dashboard, you’ll need to check your levels
Manually. This can be done quite easily by following these steps:
- Lift the bonnet of your car.
- Locate the dipstick and pull it out.
- Look for two notches. The lower notch will indicate the minimum oil levels for your engine, while the higher notch will indicate the maximum levels.
- Reinsert the dipstick and then slowly pull it all the way out again.
- Check where the oil has marked the dipstick, indicating your oil levels.
Maintaining your oil at the optimal level is crucial to prevent the engine from seizing up and breaking down.
If oil levels are too low, there is a significant increase in engine failure.
If oil levels are too high, there is a risk of the crankshaft coming into contact with oil, causing severe engine damage.
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